Download PDF How to Design Your Own Dress Patterns, by Adele P. Margolis
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How to Design Your Own Dress Patterns, by Adele P. Margolis
Download PDF How to Design Your Own Dress Patterns, by Adele P. Margolis
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How to Design Your Own Dress Patterns [Import] [Hardcover] Adele P. Margolis (Author) Publisher: Hanover House; 1st edition. edition (1959) Language: English ISBN-10: 0263700046
- Sales Rank: #324154 in Books
- Published on: 1959
- Format: Import
- Original language: English
- Binding: Hardcover
- 286 pages
Most helpful customer reviews
44 of 44 people found the following review helpful.
Wonderful Book!!
By beachyread
It teaches you how to design by altering basic patterns. It gives you step-by-step instructions on how to create a pattern and it explains clearly and simply how to transform a basic pattern into glamorous garments. It provides you with basic terminology. Although, the book is very old (published 1972) it provides you with instructions to CREATE your own design that can be apply to wherever your mind takes you. A lot of the examples in the drawings are beautiful!! You may want to use them just like that. I have been sewing all my life, since I was a teenager. I never had any formal training (except a short class in high school), so I have mainly learned from trial and error. I think this book it's great to provide you with the background, as well as with the complexity to create more difficult designs. I really think you can use this book as far as you want to go, whether you are basic or more advance. It's written in a very simple form and nicely said... it's a great book, highly recommend it!!
It's a shame that there is no detail information on the book, so please refer to the contents below:
chp1 - There is an Art in a Dart: patterns why, slopers for starting, basic patterns are available for home sewers, standard sloper for standard size pattern, personalized sloper for individual pattern, scale model for the exercises in this book, how to shift the sloper dart control to new positions, the bulging block, swing-around-the-sloper, how to shift the skirt dart, how to shift the sleeve dart, curved darts, asymmetric designs, to me the pattern for figure 18b, bulging block to the rescue, structural designs vs. added decoration, shaping should suit the fabric too, the moral is clear, look ma no darts, how to shift the dart control for gathers shirring or smoking, how to make one gore of a four-gore skirt, how to convert the elbow dart to gathers, no-dart no-bulge no-shape, how to make the dart-free sloper, an "easy" way to eliminate a dart.
chp2 - It's a pattern!: from exercise to pattern, refining the pattern, use your judgment in correcting a pattern, designer's darts vs. dressmaker's darts, how to shorten a dart, how to lengthen (extend) a dart, how much?, a pair of shapely dart legs, designs and symbols, the name of the pattern piece, to fold or not to fold, the grain line, how to establish the lengthwise grain, how to establish the crosswise grain, hw to establish the bias grain, stitching lines-seams, stitching lines-darts, decorative topstitching, seam allowance, the cutting line, notches, guidelines, shoulder and underarm markings, placement marks, spot markings, fold lines, hems, anything that will help.
chp3 - The more, the merrier: divide and conquer, waistline-shoulder dart combination, fitted or full, how to make French darts, how to make multiple darts in the skirt, multiple darts at the waistline, multiple elbow darts, how to make multiple darts tucks at the shoulder, how to make multiple dart tucks at the neckline, multiple darts at center front, suggestions for new patterns makers.
chp 4 - Hide-and-seek dart control: shaping by seams, how to make the pattern for a control seam with divided control, a control seam for the back bodice, the control seam moved off the dart point, non-vertical control seams, a pattern for diagonal control seaming, a pattern with horizontal control seaming, fabric-a consideration, the versatile yoke, some suggestions for designing yokes, for design purposes only, when dart control is concealed in a yoke seam, call attention to a beautiful midriff, a yoke that doesn't quite make it, the control belt, the double-contour belt, stitch and region-design possibilities, repeat performance-similar seams, control seams in back-skirt-sleeve, the bodice back yoke, control seam in a two-piece sleeve, and skirts too, the hip-length slopers, front hop-length sloper, back hip-length sloper, fashion-in-the-round, pattern wise.
chp 5 - Slash, Spread, and Swirl: type 1 circular fullness, type 2 balanced fullness, a curve that comes to you straight, another way to get a curve-by darts, here is the way to add circular fullness at a bodice waistline, circular fullness at the hem of a skirt, how to make a dartless shirt sloper, add fullness to the dartless sloper, an easy way to make a circular skirt, how to make the pattern for a semi-circular skirt, how to make the pattern for a circular skirt, a note on skirt waistbands, corrected waistline measurement and waistband for circular skirt, non-vertical non-axial circular fullness, how to circular fullness at a neckline, here is the way to add balanced fullness, stay the fullness, pleats for additional fullness, meet the pleat, things to consider about pleats, how deep a pleat?, how to make a straight knife-pleated or box-pleated skirt without a pattern, pretty pleats, how to make a pattern for knife-pleated skirt with a yoke panel, the skirt with inverted pleat, the skirt plus extension, the underlay, a side-pleated dress, ways to eliminate bulk in a pleated garment, a flared box-pleated skirt, more of the same, flare may be added to each gore, seam-or slash fullness, godets, research and development department.
chp 6 - High-Low Neckline: scooped-out necklines, how to make the pattern for a dropped neckline, what to do about that back-shoulder dart, the square neckline, an oval neckline, the asymmetric neckline, finish with a facing, how to make a pattern for a facing and an interfacing, facing to the fore, first aid for gapping necklines, why the neckline gaps, correction of sloper for narrow chest, correction of sloper for narrow shoulders, correction of sloper for smaller-than-average bust, the bare-and-beautiful department, a basic halter deign, one-shoulder designs, strapless dresses, from a low low to a high high, raised necklines with style details, the bateau (boat) neckline, raised standing neckline, drapery softens the neckline -the cowl, a high cowl with a single drape, a cowl on a dropped neckline, a deep cowl neckline, a cowl yoke, for deeper fuller folds, other cowls, the skirt with deep cowl drapes at the sides, the cowl on the sleeve.
chp 7 - Buttons, bow, and pockets a `plenty: what no exit?, decision decision, the zippered closing, the buttoned closing, buttonhole markings, how to make the single-breasted closing, how to make the facing for the single-breasted garment, buttoned on a band, how to make the double-breasted closing, the surplice closing, the asymmetric closing, asymmetric designs with deep overlaps, a right side that doesn't know what the left side is doing, the fly front, the two-piece fly front, the placket opening, the tailored neck-opening placket, without benefit of extension, right-or left?, tabs are not trifles, buttons bows buckles and bands, the pocket picture, for-real pockets, fake pockets, pattern procedure for pockets, a pocket applied to the right side of the garment, the pocket set in a construction seam, a pocket set in a style line, the pocket in a slash, the welt pocket-part applied part set-in-a-slash or seam, the flap pocket.
chp 8 - Collars to capes: for the rest of us, a word for it -terms used in collar construction, collars curves and stands, before you begin your collar designing, you can't beat a band collar, a bias fold becomes a collar, standing collars, flat collars, a cape foundation pattern, collars with a soft roll, collars with a deeper roll, collars with a very deep roll, collars with a deeper roll at back only, choose your collar, structural design vs. added decoration, perhaps some fullness.
chp 9 - Off the Cuff - The set-in sleeve: old principles new uses, and old story, the anatomy of a set-in sleeve, how to remove ease from the cap, how to compare the sleeve cap with the armscye, the underarm curve, how to determine the grain of the sleeve, set of slopers, the long and the short of it, the sport-shirt sleeve, flat-cap movement high-cap style, the basic shirtwaist sleeve pattern, the sleeve band to be slipped over the hand, the shirtwaist sleeve with a placket opening and band, a shortened shirtwaist sleeve, the shirtwaist sleeve with a wide fitted band, how to make a fitted band, additional fullness for the shirtwaist sleeve, the five standard slash lines, sleeve styles with fullness, the bishop sleeve, the peasant sleeve, fullness upon fullness, the bell sleeve, how to make the pattern for the bell sleeve, a bell but no liberty, the leg-o-mutton sleeve, up out and away, an extended sleeve cap, the lantern sleeves, sleeves for grace and comfort, circle sleeves, drapes and draped effects, two-piece sleeve with vertical control seam, a pattern for a shoulder pad, for a kimono or raglan sleeve and dropped-shoulder styles, the sleeveless dress.
chp 10 - More about sleeves: the fitted kimono sleeve, the deeper the sleeve the more dramatic it becomes, new sloper placement results in new designs, the short, wide kimono sleeve, a kimono sleeve that fits close to the body, the burnoose sleeve, how to make the pattern for the burnoose sleeve, the dropped-shoulder design, juggle the pieces, the cap sleeve, a cap sleeve with a shape style line, part of the bodice joined with the sleeve, the dolman sleeve, the strap-shoulder, the raglan sleeve, more of sleeve and yoke in one piece, sleeve in one with a yoke panel, the dropped or extended shoulder on a yoke, add a part, the end of the beginning.
chp 11 - Remnants: sew it seems, patterns with a purpose, how to make the basic-fitting jacket sloper, how to make the basic-fitting coat sloper, sleeve slopers for jackets and coats, how to make one-piece jacket sleeve, tailored collars, how to draft the shawl collar for a tailored garment, the notched collar, other collars for tailored garments, test all collars in fabric, pants pattern, making patterns for children's clothes, children's slopers, draping, here's what you'll need for draping a new design, let the fabric tells you what it wants to do, how the courage to cut, learn to use your hands, half a design is often better than the hole design, suggested procedure for draping, grading, pattern changes are made in these places, the method for making pattern changes, the shifting method, grade each of the patterns pieces in the same way, let's make the pattern!, where do design ideas come from?, a working sketch, information please, select the appropriate slopers, trial run: the muslin model, the jigsaw puzzle, "I made the pattern for this myself!," freedom of choice, you'll never be the same!.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Great book on dress design!
By RKL Designs
I have been sewing since I was 12 years and I have been collecting sewing books for most of my adult life. This is the most thorough book I have ever seen. Most books just give a piece of the puzzle. This books explains not only how to make a dart but why you would need a dart and how to use a dart to accomplish your design and if you don't want darts how to redraft seam lines to eliminate them. This is an awesome book! This book is old but the content is still relevent it explains everything you ever wanted to know about dress design which can also be used for blouse or top design or skirt design. What is a dress but a skirt and top? Mrs. Margolis goes into great detail to explain how to add variation in collars, openings, necklines, sleeves, and hemlines. She does not cover slacks in this book but if you ever wondered how a detail to a dress, skirt, or blouse was accomplished or how to do it yourself this is the book fo for you.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
So glad I bought this
By Amazon Shopper
So glad I bought this! It is wonderful, charming, conversational. It is remarkable how well edited sewing books were in the last century.
Absolutely fabulous course in dart control.
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